or the online account of JoS amazing adventures in latin america in 2003-2004

sábado, noviembre 15, 2003

La routa del PanAm

Where to go ?

The world is one big place ! So instead of trying to see a piece of everything, I decided to dedicate my limited (5 months) time to one continent, knowing I would probably only see bits of that too. But hey, it's a start. :) After having read some and talked to many fellow travellers or people who have lived in Latin America (see Muchas gracias for all their credits), I came up with this flexible planning :

December - January : Maya Trail Mexico (with my roomie Kris) - Guatemala
January - February - March : Honduras - Roatan Island - Nicaragua - Costa Rica (with my girlfriend Leen!)
March - April : Inca Trail South Peru (with my brother Andres & Tina!) - Bolivia
April - May : Pantanal region, Brazil - flying out to Rio de Janeiro ... and back home!

¡Cuidado! Latin America has volcanoes, El Niño, earthquakes, mosquitos, Bolivian roadblocks but also mojitos, salsa and surf beaches, so don't be surprised if I get stuck somewhere along. Like I said, it's flexible and that's all the fun!

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Insurance

Travel insurance is no luxery either, so I made sure to read all the 'little letters', because not all insurances cover adventurous stuff like rafting, diving or mountain trekking. Elvia has a interesting deal with Joker ('Travel Selection'), that covers ticket cancellation as well.

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VISA documents and stuff

One of the good things about travelling in Latin-America is that (as far as I know) no country requires a VISA. All you need is your international passport. I'm flying via Miami so I got lucky to have a new one : since September 11th, US paranoia forces everybody entering the States to have a 'digital' (in the near future biometric!) passport. I noted down the addresses of the Belgian consulates abroad (just in case) and sent an email to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, notifying them about my travel plans. Their website has up to date travel guidance by country and more info about all required travel documents as well. Back home, the Postal services let me forward my mail to another address for 9 euro. In my case, my parents are keeping my checks and balances and paying all those nasty bills while I'm gone (isn't that great?). They also keep a copy of all the important documents, and have my travel schedule put up on their fridge (what can I say!).

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La mochila del PanAm

I aimed at 15 kilos and got to 17, so not that bad...! At least my back can take the load, and that's what counts.I ended up packing very few clothes (f I need something I can buy it where I go, I figured) but enough warm things, like a fleece, a mountain jacket and a good sleeping bag. Travel light is a good credo, but nothing sucks more than getting wet or cold at night. Some space also went to a first aid kit and a travel pharmacy, better be safe than sorry! For our entertainment sake, I brought along a pack of cards, my diving mask and snorkel, thermal underwear (sexy!), a digital camera (the smaller, the better) and a MP3 player, worth 128MB of music (or about 30 of my favourite songs). I just can't go tripping without music.Some time but little space went into copies of all kind of travel documents or other important stuff I might loose or get robbed off (vaccination card, passport, ID cards, tickets, traveller checks,...). I also took with me some maps and my travel guides of course. To see when all the other lights go out : a flashlight (viva Maglite!), a headlight (if I go mining) and enough batteries to light a Christmas tree (with recharger).For the rest, all the other standard cliche backpacker stuff like hiking boots, Tevas, lots of insect repellent and sun spray, a fresh toothbrush, an alarmclock and ear plugs (helps against loud Latino telenovelas or street music at night). Finally, I must thank my girlfriend Leen for willing to bring to Costa Rica a 'South-America' package (winter socks and the like) and taking other more exotic stuff back home. ¡Viva las viajes!

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PanAm links

A selection of my favourite places on the web, with travel info and other interesting stuff :
Tina & Andres travel the world - my bro's site!
Another kind of blue - Jason & Vanessa's story
Effe weg - other PanAm travelers
Wegwijzer - infocentre for world travelers
Lonely Planet - the world at your feet
AFS - take a step in the world!
Joker - alternative travel agency, ticket services
AS Adventure - shop shop shop
Kariboe - for good advice and gear
Conjuguemos - learn Spanish online!
CLT - their summer courses are fantastic :)
PADI - It's a fact : divers have more fun!
Hades basketball - these guys kick major ass
KRC Genk - the pride and hope of Limburg
De Monk - Brussels' pub serving yummy Duvel
Ryan Adams - the coolest guy in rock 'n roll
2manydjs - pumpin' Belgian beats
Fence - the other pride and hope of Limburg
Weezer - these slackers know their guitars

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Money

Pesos, quetzals, reals...Latin America has it all! So I'd better not run around with too much local money...and use my VISA or Maestro debit cards where possible. The rest comes in small $ notes and traveller checks. A good tip : stack your money in several secret pockets, and keep an 'emergency' 100$ somewhere really safe. An old wallet with a couple of expired bank cards and some small cash can be a marvelous decoy. Order your money on time, because it usually takes about a week to get to the bank.

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Health

Latin America has bugs, mosquitos and other yummy stuff, so I'd better be safe than sorry! I got vaccins for :- tetanus/polio- Hepatitis A and B- Typhoid- Yellow fever (only for Peru, Bolivia & Brazil)Malaria is the other thing : avoid getting bitten! I am not a big fan of malaria medecine, but for some coastal areas in Central America and Brazil, it's no luxery either. Nivaquine is OK for Zone A countries (Central America), for Zone C (Amazon basin), you need Malarone. Check with your doctor or the Institute for Tropical Diseases for their advice.

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Tickets

I bought my ticket 4 months before leaving, which was no luxery : I'd say book early! I got a good deal from Iberia, which has interesting offers to nearly all destinations in Latin-America. The people at Joker did all the rest!

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The story behind PanAm

Why would one be so crazy to spend 5 months travelling all on his own in Latin America? To explore the limits of human digestion in the state of Tobasco? To risk one's male pride playing football against the local Maradonna? Or to take a stroll on the Lightning Path with general Tapioca? Well, I did ask myself the same question when I first came up with the idea in the fall of 2002. Yes, I had travelled alone before, but that was to Ibiza back in 1993 (I already did crazy stuff when I was 19), and I was only away from mommy for 2 weeks... So that didn't count. But nevertheless, I had been to Nepal and Vietnam before, and spent a year in Paris and in Chicago... So should it be that crazy? Hell no! Just a bad case of travel fever!No, seriously, I had been thinking about going on a world tour already for a long time, and at the age of 29, I had come to that point where I was thinking 'It's now or never!'. But like Willem Elsschot, the famous Flemish writer, said once : 'Between dream and act, there are laws and practical objections.' : indeed, what to do with my job, my appartment, how to pay for it, where to go and what to do, when and for how long,...? Well, as far as my job was concerned, I got lucky. Working in Belgium, I got the possibilty to take up 'time credit', a social welfare system allowing employees to take paid (!!) leave from work, with a guaranteed return, all social security covered!! Nope, it's not a Fidel Castro wet dream come true, it's all Belgian, check it out for yourself at http://www.rva.be/. Knowing I could easily rent out my appartment (which I did), I could start to ponder the most difficult part : where to go?!! I had been to Asia before, and attracted by its wonderful people and amazing cultural heritage, my first idea was to go back there, doing the 'classical' trip from India to South-East Asia and then down to Australia. But only having 5 months at hand, and not wanting to rush and fly from one place to another, I needed to cut that trip to maybe only India and a couple of other countries. And then I figured : why not limit myself to one continent and one language (something I could learn, like Spanish)? Why not go to Latin-America? Why not do the PanAm?!!Designed in the early 20th century, the PanAmerican highway travels more than 15,000 km from Fairbanks, Alaska down to Buenos Aires in Argentina, crossing 13 countries. The highway cuts through civil war, oil booms, pristine forests and toxic rivers. It passes a variety of races and relgions ; it glimpses dreams and dissapointments. But in 2003, it stands unfinished. Fear for massive immigration from Mexico and the possibility of cattle disease passing through the Darién Gap between Panama and Columbia led the US - the primary sponsor of the project - to back out a long time ago. Fascinated by the surreality of such a road, suddenly stopping in the middle of the Panamanian jungle, my first wild idea was to travel down the highway : all the way from the US to Panama, and from there on, further in to Columbia and South-America. But faced with the enormous travel distance and the amount of time I would have to sit out in local buses, I quickly dismissed the idea. Instead, I chose to honour the golden travel principle 'Less is more', 'limit' myself to a couple of countries in Latin-America, and look to where the PanAm road would bring me from there. Top on the list were Yucatán & Guatemala (Maya trail), some unidentified exotic destination where I could dive and/or surf and Bolivia (why you should definitely go there, ask Lore - hehe). So in good spirits, I started reading and talking to fellow travellers who had been to the region before. I told them that I wanted a good balance between culture, 'pura vida' (dive & surf), trekking adventure and nature discovery. 'Mmm nice, but what about the people and the language?', they asked me. 'Every year, tons of tourists travel through Latin America : and you'll be one of them. But if you learn the language, at least you'll be less of a gringo. People will open up. Talk to people : that's the pura vida.' Taking up this good advice, I enrolled for a Spanish summer course at the CLT in Leuven. And we talked : the best decision Leen and I ever took. Well, we only found that out afterwards : the rest is history. She'll be in Madrid for a year, I'll be for 5 months on the other side of the globe. If it weren't for the language, we probably would never have met.So, I hope to be back home around May 11th 2004, just in time to chill out a couple or more days in Madrid before picking up work again...that is, if I make it back alive and well! Have fun following my PanAm Viajes!

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