La routa Zapatista

Well, after a short introduction to Chiapas in Tuxtla Gutierrez, we got right to the heart of the region in San Cristobal de Las Casas, the town from where the Zapatista movement launched their uprisal on January 1st, 1994. So without really realizing it, we have arrived here just 10 years after the events. Not that any big festivities are planned, therefore some of the violence is still too fresh in the collective memory of the people in the surrounding hills. Although the peace agreement of 1997 was officialy enacted in 2001 (see last report), Zapatista forces remain active in the jungle and paramilitary troops keep on terrorizing people from time to time. And nothing has fundamentaly changed for the poor indigenas who roam the mountains surrounding San Cristobal. So the mood here after 10 years of resistance is one of frustration : ´1994-2004 : La Gran Ilusion' titled one of the major newspapers here today. Or like one of the Zapatista commandates said in a documentary we saw here on the 10 years of Zapatista struggle : No se puede comer pan con el papel. You can't eat bread with a piece a paper, referring to the 2001 law that grants the indigenas the same rights as every other Mexican. Ironically, over the last 10 years, lots did change in the town of San Cristobal! With the Zapatista uprising, the town has become a mecca for anti-globalists, anarchists and other bohemian style of people. Barefooted outcasts, hippies and lots of backpapers seem to have taken over the town, so in short, it has gotten very touristic nowadays. And coming from Lagunas, Oaxaca, that was more than a culture shock for all of us. Besides the Manu Chau types, you don't see too many Mexicans here. Except for the countless Maya women and children, who hang on your shorts all day trying to sell you their handscrafts or wanting to get their picture taken for 5 pesos. But all of this doesn't mean that the town has gone overrated or has nothing to offer. With its clean mountain air (2100m altitude), it's chilly but refreshing and it has the clearest blue skies which make up for great photography. The churches are very pittoresque as well, going for pink to yellow and blue. The town has some very good cheap restaurants (go to Tierra Madre or La Salsa Verde if you're here!!!), bakeries and night life. And since it has so many backpackers visiting it, it offers some very nice tours around the hills and further to Palenque and other Chiapas sites as well.The surrounding Maya villages such as San Juan Chamula are worth a visit: although it has gone a bit touristy, the mercado and especially the church are quite a sight. Inside the church, the most bizarre religious practices take place, mixing Maya beliefs, superstition with influences from Catholicism. Luckily enough there weren't too many other tourists when we came in, which made the impression the more bizarre. I can't show any pics of the practice, (it's strictly forbidden to photograph, the Mayas believe that their soul might be taken away doing so) but imagine yourself a church with no chairs but full of pine needles (easier for the saints and spirits to walk on), clouded with incense, and lighted by hundreds of candles. In this setting people worshippers make their own little altar on the floor, and perform chants to drive out the evil spirits of sick people. This may include as well the rubbing of eggs or live chickens over the body of the sick as the drinking of pure alcohol and lots of Coca Cola or Pepsi! Like we all know, nothing beats the real thing for a good burp, and this also helps to expel the evil spirits so they think. And then to think that Coca Cola originally was designed as a medecine...It all left a bizarre impression, especially knowing that these people have little access to 'traditional' medecine and health care, and most of them refuse it any way (ever seen someone treating a scar with lemon juice?). The begging and the poverty in the village raises all the more questions. At least we didn't go in a tourist bus or combi, but on the back of a horse (my ass and back are so sore!!) which was another first time experience for me. Makes you think how beautiful but also how injust this country sometimes is.Tomorrow I am leaving all the other Lonely Planet people behind and pursue further the gringo trail to Palenque and then a couple of days into the Lacandon jungle. Next report probably from in Guatemala! ¡Hasta luego!